Anthropometric Researches on the Human Body and setting Size Standards for Ladies' Apparel

Abstract

Flat pattern grading represents a process of systematic increase and decrease of pattern dimensions performed on a basic size flat pattern resulting in a certain range of sizes for the given pattern, whereas the style and design of the outfit are preserved in all sizes thus obtained. The specifications applied, in order to calculate the amount of increasing or decreasing of the basic size pattern in each area for a specific size, are prepared based on the data obtained from anthropometric measurements of the human body.
The first anthropometric research on women was carried out in the United States in 1940. Measurements, with the participation of over 10000 women, were performed on 60 points of the body with a template. The aim was to ensure a standard body type classification, appointing the size and the body measures for each size, so that this information could be used by manufacturers, retailers and customers. The trade standard СS 215 – 58 – Body measurements for sizes of women’s patterns and apparel was published in 1958 by the US Trade Department. In 1971 the Voluntary Product Standard РS 42 – 70 – Body measurements for sizes of women’s patterns and apparel was published as well.
The opening of the European Common Market in 1992 called for the elaboration of a united size and measures standard for the European countries.
Recent researches for collecting anthropometric body data use scanners for taking measures. They record in 2- or 3-D the body form and positions, and then calculate the measures taken. The 3D records and measures can be saved in the computer memory for future application.
It is also made possible for the customer to see the outfit and have a simulative fitting by means of a 3D body computer model of a standard size, or on his/her own visualized silhouette.
A further development of the Internet apparel trade is expected, using the achievements of visualizing technologies and the chance to use 3D body scanning data. In the nearest future it will be possible for a customer to choose an outfit while sitting at home, in the best fitting size, to have a 3600 survey of his/her body or to have an outfit custom-made changed by his/her own specifications.